By TLex PANERAI preview their latest divers model, the Luminor Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic Titanio 47mm - AKA PAM 00389, which is due to be officially unveiled at SIHH 2013 and released this October priced 8'900euro. The new PAM 389 has two very special features, one of which far exceeds typical specifications for a divers watch, the other is a Panerai first!
If the name 'Amagnetic' wasn't already enough of a hint; the first special feature of the 389 and one that Panerai are particularity proud of is its anti-magnetic capability. True divers watches or at least those that comply with industry standards for divers watches such ISO or NIHS norms are required to shield their movements from anti-magnetic fields that could potentially disrupt or interfere with them thus inhibiting the diver's ability to accurately read dive time, which could (in a worse case scenario) result in death!
The in-house Panerai movement, an automatic mechanical, P.9000 calibre is shielded by a soft iron case of a particularly high purity. This case and the the watch dial which is also made from iron forms a Faraday cage, which protects the movement up to 40,000 A/m (ampere per meter), more than eight times greater than that specified by NIHS 90-10 norms. It will also shield it from magnetic fields created by everyday devices such as cellphones or computers.
The 47mm Titanium constructed watch case makes use of Panerai's iconic 1950-style design, a favorite of mine which is used for all Sumbmersible models. It features a Titanium rotational divers bezel with studs and coin-edging of a design that dates back to the 50s when it was used for the legendary Egiziano, a watch that was commissioned for use by the Egyptian Navy.
However the bezel comes with a new feature; a ceramic inlay. This is the first time Panerai have used this material for one of their bezel designs and the first time (for my knowledge) they have used a black inlay (or inlay of any type for that matter) on any of their divers bezels. Although the Luminor Submersible is of a classic design, it lends itself well to the new modern feature. The design has in fact already been tried and tested by a small New Zealand based watch company, MAGRETTE.
Typically ceramic inserts are glossy (not all), but Panerai have opted for a more utilitarian look with a matte finish. In fact the whole watch has a matte brushed finish, the only polishing is on the bezel studs (which are flush not raised as is typical) and the bezel edging. This helps to further accentuate the new matte black inlay, which along with the matte finish of the Titanium case give the watch an über cool toolish aesthetic that just might prove irresistible!
From PANERAI The creative energy of Officine Panerai's Workshop of Ideas is demonstrated in the Luminor Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic Titanio, the new model which is a novel synthesis of the strict respect for traditional values and authenticity of the Panerai brand, and the continuous search for technically advanced solutions.
Remarkable resistance to magnetic fields - For Panerai, innovation is above all about functionality, and in the Luminor Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic Titanio it is seen in its special case construction which ensures a remarkable degree of resistance to magnetic fields: 40,000 A/m (ampere per metre), a limit more than eight times greater than the value specified by the international standards of the Normes de lIndustrie Horlogère Suisse (NIHS 90-10).
Such a high limit is achieved by the use of a special internal case made of soft iron of the highest purity, which encloses and isolates the movement, forming a Faraday cage that diverts the flow of magnetic fields. The soft iron case is immediately beneath the dial, which is made of the same material
This case structure is useful not only in extreme environmental situations but also in daily life, in that watches are often exposed to magnetic fields generated by electric charges and currents emanating from objects in common use, such as household appliances, computers 2 and cell phones. Such magnetic fields can noticeably alter the rate of the watch and even stop the movement: a possibility that is virtually non-existent in the new Luminor Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic Titanio 47mm.
New ceramic and titanium bezel The soft iron internal case of the Luminor Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic Titanio is contained within a classic Luminor Submersible case of brushed titanium, fitted with the lever bridge which locks the winding crown and thus helps in achieving water-resistance to a depth of 300 metres.
The design of the watch includes a feature which is completely new in Panerai watches: applied to the rotating titanium bezel, inspired by that of the models made by Panerai for the Egyptian Navy in the 1950s, is a disc of opaque black ceramic, on which the linear and dot-shaped titanium markers are fixed. The bezel rotates only in a clockwise direction, to prevent accidental movement interfering with the measurement of the time of the dive.
MOVEMENT Automatic mechanical, Panerai P.9000 calibre, executed entirely by Panerai, 13¾ lignes, 7.9 mm thick, 28 jewels, Glucydur® balance, 28,800 alternations/hour. Incabloc® anti-shock device. Power reserve 3 days, two barrels. 197 components.
FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, calculation of immersion time.
CASE Diameter 47 mm, brushed titanium.
BEZEL Anti-clockwise unidirectional rotating bezel in ceramic and brushed titanium with polished edges, graduated scale for calculating the time of immersion and ratchet click at minute intervals.
BACK Screw, titanium. Device protecting the crown: (protected as a trademark) Brushed titanium.
DIAL Black with applied luminous hour markers. Date at 3 o'clock, seconds at 9 o'clock.
CRYSTAL Sapphire, formed of corundum, 3.2 mm thick. Anti-reflective coating.
WATER -resistance: 30 bar (~ 300 meters).
STRAP PANERAI personalized rubber strap and large-size brushed titanium buckle. Supplied with a second interchangeable strap, a tool to change the strap and a steel screwdriver.